Questions to Ask a Builder

When you buy a new home you want to get full value for your investment. This means choosing an established and reputable builder—someone you can trust, someone who has the technical skills, a proven track record and a professional business approach.

Fortunately, there are many good builders around, and with a little effort you will have no trouble finding someone who is right for you. Before you enter into a contract with anyone, ask lots of questions to make sure it is the kind of company you want to do business with.

Is home building your profession? Home building is a serious business. It takes commitment to keep up with everything that is going on in the industry. It requires solid business skills and a track record of satisfied clients. If a “builder” proposes to build your home part-time, you should proceed with caution. If this builder offers you a “better” financial deal, you need to wonder. The old adage that you get what you pay for holds true for home buying as well.

What is your experience, and how long have you been in business? Good builders are proud of their track record, whether they have been in business for 3 or 30 years. They will tell you about their background, their training and experience, their strengths and what sets them apart from others. They will be honest with you about what they can do for you, when and for how much.

Are you a member of a home warranty program? Warranty programs provide additional protection for the home buyer’s investment. In some regions, there is a variety of warranties available. Ask the builder to explain the details—you want the warranty that best meets your needs for both the short and the long term.

Will you give us references from your past clients? Contact past customers to find out how satisfied they are with their new home. Ask if the home was completed on budget and on time, what the builder was like to work with (easy to talk with, understanding, helpful), and about the company’s after-sales service.

What after-sales service does your company provide? Professional builders stand behind their homes with an after-sales service program. Ask the builder to explain the program in some detail: what’s covered, how to request service and the typical response time.

Can we visit your work site(s)? The work site offers many clues about the company and the quality of the builder’s homes. Ask for a tour of a home under construction and a chance to meet the site crew. Take note of the details: is the site clean and orderly, are materials stored out of the weather, and so on.

Remember that when you buy a home. You are also “buying” the builder-you need to pay as much attention to choosing the right builder as you do the right home. Asking the questions suggested here will give you the information you need to choose a builder with confidence.

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Keeping Warm for Less

If you feel a shiver each time you open your utility bill, your house may be too cold. More likely, however, you’re paying more than you should to heat it. In either case, you can make changes now that will make your home more comfortable and save you money.

These aren’t big projects like adding attic insulation or replacing your windows — save those for later. They’re easy-to-do and inexpensive techniques. The most complicated will take a weekend afternoon, and many take little time and don’t even require the purchase of materials, only changing a habit or two. Others can be done for as little as $10. We’ll take a look first at the obvious stuff and then at more specialized — but still simple — energy-saving techniques.

1. Install a Programmable Thermostat

A programmable thermostat allows you to preset temperatures for different times of the day because you don’t need to keep your home at 68 degrees around the clock. Although one shouldn’t be used with heat pumps, a programmable thermostat is a real money-saver with air-conditioning as well as with heat. Choose a setting on the low end when you’re sleeping or are away and go with a higher setting at other times for savings of between 10 and 20 percent of your bill.

2. It’s Closed-Flue Season, so Minimize Those Romantic Fires

An open fireplace damper lets the same amount of heated air escape up the chimney as a wide-open 48-inch window lets out. Make sure your flu is closed when you don’t have a fire going. In fact, it is a good idea to reduce the number of times you use your fireplace. A roaring fire exhausts over 20,000 cubic feet of heated air per hour to the outside. Sure it feels warm by the fire, but every Btu that goes up the chimney is replaced by cold air pulled into the house elsewhere. And all that cold air has to be heated, a costly prospect. Can’t resist a fire every few nights? Install a set of glass fireplace doors. Closing these doors when you go to bed prevents large volumes of heated air in the living space from escaping after the fire has gone out.

3. The Spin on Ceiling Fans

Ceiling fans are everywhere in warm-weather climates. Spinning counterclockwise, they move air around the room. Not all energy experts feel it’s a good idea to use them in the heating season (doubters says they cool the air too much), but the fans do help bring heated air down to earth in rooms with cathedral or high-sloped ceilings. However, that’s only if you slide the reversing switch on the side of the motor housing to the winter (clockwise) position. Then run the fan at its lowest speed. If you can’t reverse the blade rotation or if you think the fan is cooling off the room too much, leave it off.

4. Move Furniture Away From Vents, Registers, and Radiators

This sounds like a no-brainer, but many times a couch, chair, or bed moved during the summer stays there in winter, blocking the flow of heat into the room. This wastes money and leads to cold rooms. With a forced-air system, blocking a supply or return vent can cause a house-wide pressure imbalance that disrupts the heat flow in the whole system.

5. Stop the Draft, Close the Door

Light a match and the rising hot air will draw nearby cooler air into the match flame. Heat a building, and the rising hot air will pull cold air from outside into the house. It’s a physical principle called “stack effect.” To defeat it, cut down on spaces cold air can enter your house, like under a door to the outside. Seal this gap with a “door snake,” a long thin cloth sack, like a bean bag. Fill it with dried peas or rice, something to make it heavy enough to stay in place. You can sew one using scrap fabrics. You can also keep the heat where it’s needed by making sure some interior doors, such as those leading to hallways or near stairways, are kept shut. This closes off natural air passageways so they can’t act as chimneys, allowing warm air to escape up through the house.

6. Install a Door Sweep

If you feel cold air seeping beneath a door leading outside and find that using a door snake is inconvenient, install a draft-defeating nylon door sweep. This long, thin broomlike vinyl-and-pile attachment gets installed along the inside bottom edge of the door. Cut the sweep to fit with a hacksaw and keep it in place with four or five wood screws.

If you heat the garage, check to see if cold air is infiltrating along the bottom edge of the door. Rubber garage-door gaskets, nailed in place with 1 in. galvanized roofing nails, can stop that cold air cold.

7. Quick-Seal Windows

Dead air is a very effective insulator, and you can create a pocket of it by installing clear plastic film across the inside of your windows. Available in kits that contain plastic film and double-sided tape, the plastic becomes nearly invisible when you heat it with a blow-dryer. If you find it unsightly, place the film on windows and patio doors selectively or only in unused rooms.

Measure your window before buying; kits vary in size, and they work only with wood, aluminum and vinyl-clad molding. Payback is fast on this inexpensive technique, because heat lost through windows accounts for 10 to 25 percent of your overall heating bill.

If you can rattle your windows, they’re letting a lot of heat escape around the frames. Seal the open spaces with putty-like rope caulk before shrink wrapping. Press-in-place rope caulk ($5 per window) is mess-free and easy to use, and removing it in the spring is a cinch. But be sure to do a thorough window-sealing and caulking job before next heating season rolls around.

8. Work the Drapes

Got drapes or curtains that block sunlight? Open them during the day to get free solar heat (make sure windows are clean). And then close the curtains just before sunset.

9. Change Your Furnace Filter

If you have a forced-air system, changing the furnace filter can save you some energy (up to 5 percent) and keep dust down in the house. The system will last longer and be less likely to break down. The most popular 16 X 20-inch duct filter costs around 50 cents when bought by the box. Change them monthly during heating season. Measure your air filter before shopping; they range in size from 12 X 12 inches to 30 X 30 inches. An alternative to swapping out the replacement filter is to use washable filters (around $20 each). With care, they can last five years.

10. Adjust Your Water Heater

You use more hot water in winter. Lower the water heater temperature from 140 degrees to 120 degrees. And take showers, not baths. The average bath consumes up to 25 gallons of hot water, while a five-minute shower uses up much less — only around 10 gallons. Equipping your showers with low-flow showerheads also dramatically reduces the consumption of water, both hot and cold.

11. Defeat Rapid Cycling

Rapid cycling — when a heating system fires on and off — wastes money. It occurs because of a heat-anticipation feature on thermostats that maintains a near-constant room temperature. Most electronic setback thermostats are programmed to act when they sense a 1 degree to 1.5 degree drop. If the thermostat is misprogrammed to less than 1 degree, the heater may go into rapid cycle, firing every three minutes or less to maintain temperature. To stop rapid cycling, make sure the “cycle-rate adjustment” in the thermostat setup mode reads from 1 degree to 1.5 degree. If you change it, move it higher. On most mechanical thermostats, the amperage scale is set from 0.1 to 1.2 amps. To defeat rapid cycling, set the arrow one notch higher. Let it cycle for 24 hours before adjusting it again. Rapid cycling is common in the relatively warm early and late winter, when you’re using a unit capable of heating on the coldest days. Detect rapid cycling in midwinter, when the heater should fire 5 minutes on, 5 minutes off.

12. Lower the Thermostat

Each degree you lower the thermostat on your heating system decreases your fuel bill by 3 percent. Going from 72 degrees down to 68 degrees doesn’t matter much in terms of comfort, but it can save up to 12 percent on your heating bill. (All temperatures in this article are in degrees Fahrenheit.)

Article from, http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,214743-6,00.html